“I want to visit India – China border,” Neha’s words were echoing in my mind, as I applied for inner line permit at the DC Office in Leh.
Reality of it is, there is no India-China border in Ladakh. Closest thing to that is the LAC, Line of Actual Control. A grim reminder of the 1962 Indo-Sino War and the ongoing land dispute between India and Chinese controlled Tibet.
The best place to spot the LAC was in the Chushul Valley, en route to Rezang La War Memorial.
I had first visited Chushul during my winter trip to Ladakh in 2011 and had fallen in love with not only this quaint little village, but also the little valley it is nestled in, the Chushul Valley.
Now it was time to revisit Chushul once again.
Even though permit system had been abolished for majority of places in Ladakh for Indian Nationals (Permit system has been reintroduced in 2017, so you need permit for Nubra, Pangong and Tso Moriri as well), Chushul and a handful of other places in Ladakh still required inner line permit.
Permit for Chushul
Since Chushul is so close to the LAC, that you can actually get lost and take the wrong trail and end up on the Chinese side (unless you’re first spotted by Indian patrol), access to it is controlled by the government through the inner line permit.
Only Indian Nationals can apply for this inner line permit; foreign nationals, NRIs, PIOs and OCIs are barred from obtaining permit to this sensitive region.
To get the permit, you have to visit the DC Office in Leh between 9:30AM to 3:00PM on a working day with photo copy of a government issued photo identity card eg. driving license, passport etc. (for each and every person traveling with you) and fill the inner line permit application. You have to mention your travel dates as well as the places you will be visiting eg. Chushul, Loma, Nyoma, Hanle etc. and submit the form, photocopies of ids along with appropriate permit fees.
Documents are duly checked, and in case ADC is present, you can take the application to him, get it signed on spot and walk out of the DC Office in less than half an hour, with your permit in hand. Cherry on top is the fact that officials at DC Office are really helpful and friendly.
Drive to Chushul
Having spent the night at Pangong Villa (Dorjey +91-9419342720, 9622960460) in Spangmik, it was time to leave rest of the tourists behind and head for Chushul.
Vast majority of tourists only go till Lukung and Spangmik. Only a handful venture beyond these and still fewer beyond Man Village, where the last luxury and comfortable accommodation can be found.
This is mainly due to the fact that people are generally short on time and the road, well the 8 ton road exists only on paper, instead what you have to drive on is this.
However, the drive is scenic to say the least. Because for the vast majority of the distance, you have to drive alongside the Pangong Tso and that not only makes it a journey to remember, it also causes you to stop often for photography.
With only 3 villages between Spangmik and Chushul (Man, Merak and Kakstet), there is hardly any traffic on this route.
Even though the journey is only 45km long, it takes roughly 3 hours or more to complete, thanks to rough terrain and frequent photography breaks. Here is a time-lapse of our journey from Spangmik to Chushul.
As we drive along Pangong Tso, we have a handful of gulls and ducks for company, occasionally; we spot Kiangs (Tibetan Wild Ass), fleeing Tibet and now settling in Ladakh. In Tibet it is hunted as food and in India it is largely safe.
Apart from these, animals and humans are only visible in and around the villages. It is almost as if we have the whole of Pangong Tso to ourselves.
And we try and make the most of it. We even eat our packed breakfast as we drive along the Pangong Tso.
All the garbage we are producing is going straight to a packet, which would eventually be disposed off in Leh. We want to leave this place just as we found it, minus a few footsteps on the shore.
Few kilometers before Chushul, it is time bid adieu to Pangong Tso.
Sonam Angdus (+91-9469272773) has shown us an Indian post towards the end of our journey along Pangong Tso, and also the Chinese side. Neha and KP are excited to have seen this for the first time. However, there is more to come.
Sonam shows us a few roads and trails leading to Indian posts, darker mountains on the left are under Chinese control, while other brighter mountains are in India.
As we drive up to Chushul Village, flora and fauna becomes more visible. We spot horses, yaks, sheeps and Kiangs. It is a beautiful sight and we soak it all in. we stop towards the end of Chushul Village for tea and maggi. There is BSNL network here, even 2g data.
However, the primary lure of Chushul Valley isn’t Chushul Village. It is the 1962 War Memorials.
However, before that, we see the flag meeting point on the Indian side. This is where brigadier level officers from Indian Army and PLA meet to discuss ongoing issues. There is a similar structure on the Chinese side and meetings are held alternatively, once on the Indian side and next on Chinese side.
We see not only posts on the Chinese side, but what seems like a PLA vehicle as well. There is an ITBP truck heading towards Indian post as well. Even though it is far off in the distance and due to government restrictions we cannot shoot any photographs, it is all very exciting.
Then we come across the 1962 War Memorial dedicated to artillery.
Next up is the Rezang La War Memorial, dedicated to Major Shaitan Singh and 114 jawans of 13th Kumaon, who paid the ultimate sacrifice, defending Rezang La pass from the advancing PLA on 18th November 1962.
Words can never be enough to describe the feelings one feels while at Rezang La War Memorial, it is something that can only be understood, when you visit it in person.
And this I feel, more than the beautiful journey along Pangong Tso or the thrill of seeing the Chinese outposts is what makes the journey to Chushul truly worth it.
A journey, every Indian should take at least once in his/her life, to understand the true diversity, beauty and the unbreakable bond, that makes us all, Indians.
Beautiful and very informative article. When I shall come to Delhi ; shall definitely meet you. I follow your article regularly.
Thank you Mahendra, do let me know, when you are in Delhi.
Super nice photos!
Do you know if it’s any chance to get Chusul permit for foreigners?
Maybe to go accomplished with some authorities or local guides?
Dmytro, legally it isn’t possible, unless maybe you’re working for discovery channel or Natgeo and somehow convince my Ministry of Home Affairs that you need to make a crucial documentary there. Illegally, well there is always a way, but not what I would recommend. Especially since it is a sensitive area under army and paramilitary forces, which don’t even want Indian travelers there.
hi yogesh, beautiful write-up. May I know if it is possible to start from nubra and reach chushul via shoyak valley and pangong on the same day? I’m planning a trip to leh in May and would really like to know if I can complete pangong and chushul in the same day, else will tweak my plan a bit to do it in two days. TIA.
What would be your mode of transport?
Sorry for not giving the complete info. I’m going to hire a Scorpio. Below is the most likely itinerary. Please let me know if this looks doable.
Day1 – reach Leh and acclimatize
Day2 – Leh local sightseeing
Day3 – Leh – Turtuk and stay overnight
Day4 – Turtuk – Nubra Valley and stay overnight
Day5- Nubra – Pangong(via Shayok valley).
Day6 – Pangong – Tso moriri
Day7 – Return to Leh
Day 8 – Take off
This is easily doable. My suggestion would be to spend the night along Pangong Tso i.e. at Lukung, Spangmik or Man Village, since accommodation at Chushul isn’t that great or scenic.
If I understand correctly, I think you are suggesting to stay in Spangmik village instead of those camps near Pangong? Can you suggest me the best route to Tsomoriri from Pangong? I thought of taking the Chushul route by taking that permit but please advise if there is any other better route? Also, is Pangong-Tsomoriri doable in one day. I just want to know if I would miss the fun if rush it unnecessarily.
Spangmik is on the banks of Pangong Tso, the second settlement you can find accommodation at, first being Lukung.
Chushul route is scenic and you can easily do Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri in a single day since you’re traveling in a taxi. Just make sure you start early in the morning.
From Chushul there are multiple routes to reach Tso Moriri; one is the usual route via Loma and Nyoma. Another is via Mitpal Tso and Yeye Tso. Second one is more scenic, though it is also more desolate and comparatively rougher.
Hi yogesh sir, I need your help if I don’t have any problem then plz call me on 9990956279 or give me yours number. Sir actually I’m going to leh in the month of July n my route is pangong to tso moriri via chushul, sir I’m very much confused please talk to me sir, actually we have a group of 12 person in which there is 8 girls n that’s the main issue of my worry. So if u don’t mind plz cal me on that number, I only take 3 to 4 minutes of yours.
Wonderful travelogue Mr. Yogesh. Very informative and thoughtfully penned down. Kudos to you. However, I have a few questions of my own. Sir, in which year did you cover this route? (Pangong to Chushul). Secondly, I along with my family will be travelling from Pangong to Hanle somewhere in first week of August. Can this stretch be covered in one day itself? Since the whole stretch from Pangong to Chushul is almost dirt road, will the condition of road be the same as it is in the time lapse video that you have uploaded? As we will be carrying our own tents, can we pitch it up by the lake in Spangmik or do I need to take permission from some concerned official over there?
PS: I shall be travelling in my own vehicle which is a 4wd. I suppose it should be handy for the entire stretch.
My itinerary is as follows:
27th July: Kullu to Sarchu
28th July: Sarchu to Leh
29th July: Leh (sightseeing)
30th July: Leh to Hunder
31st July: Hunder to Spangmik (via Wari La). I’ve read that the road via Shyok is in terrible condition.
1st Aug: Spangmik to Hanle
2nd Aug: Hanle to Korzok
3rd Aug: Korzok to Sarchu
4th Aug: Sarchu to Kullu
I have done this route in December 2011 and then again in September 2016.
Pangong Tso to Hanle can easily be done in a single day.
Road condition is going to be pretty much the same unless weather plays a spoilsport.
In order to pitch your own tents, you will need to ask villagers or camp operators for permission, and then pitch your tent in their area. Pangong Tso is a wildlife protected area and you cannot pitch your tents anywhere you like.
Start from Manali if possible to cross Rohtang as early as possible and do not spend the night at Sarchu, it is fairly high in altitude and will cause Acute Mountain Sickness (read more about it here, https://www.bcmtouring.com/cms/ladakh-ams-survival-guide/). Instead, spend the second night at Jispa then start at 5 am the next morning, in order to reach Leh by evening.
There is no issue with Shyok route unless there is a landslide or rain. I would be taking this route in the second week of August. Please keep in mind that after Diskit, there are no fuel pumps till Tandi, so you will have to either carry enough fuel or buy in black.
Thanks in advance 🙂
Hi Yogesh! Thrilled to read this! Me and a few buddies are planning to do this less-trodden route on our way to Changthang. We plan to do it in Feb 2018, winter. Are permits given for this route? 🙂 Interesting to hear about Indian and Chinese posts, as I’m quite interested in geopolitics!!
Feb 5- Reach Leh, rest and permits
Feb 6- Nimmu-Basgo-Alchi-Zanskar river- Leh
Feb 7- Leh-Thikse-Stakna-Tangtse
Feb 8- Tangtse-Pangong (Man/Merak)- Chushul- Loma- Hanle
Feb 9- Hanle
Feb 10- Hanle- Ryul Tso- Tso Moriri
Feb 11- Tso Moriri
Feb 12- Tso Moriri- Kiagar Tso- Puga- Chumathang
Feb 13- Chumathang-Tso Kar- Leh
Feb 14- Leh Dosmoche festival
Feb 15- Leh exit
I plan on contacting Sonam Angdus! Please do let me know 🙂
No issue with permit, as long as all of those traveling with you are Indian Citizens. Route may or may not be doable, based on amount of snow. Since Feb is the month of heavy snowfall.
Thank you for your inputs! Yes, all are Indian Citizens!
If I want to experience frozen lakes in Changthang with relatively clear skies, which month would you recommend? 🙂 Would March be a better option?
Hi Yegesh. I am planning a trip to Chushul on the 29th of August on a bike. Is it doable? Another thing. I leave Leh on the 28th (Monday) for pangong, is it advisable to get the permit for Chushul on this day? Or can I get it in Pangong as well? My visit to Chushul and back will be on the 29th. Please put some light on this. Thank you.
Permit for all the places are issued by the DC Office in Leh, so you will need to get it first, then ride to Pangong Tso and Chushul. Here is a complete how-to on how to get the permit https://www.bcmtouring.com/cms/how-prepare-your-motorcycle-ladakh/
Hi yogesh. We are 2 indians planning to visit ladakh starting from 28th of aug to 7th sep. We intend to do a road trip on a hired taxi from pangong to tso moriri. However given sino indian Border tensions is it advisable to venture on this route since at many parts it runs parallel to LAC .also if possible could you please suggest someone reliable taxi operator for this route.
There is no issue as such as of now. If there is some tension, ITBP and Army won’t let you go near LAC, even if you have permit. So don’t worry, just go for it. For taxi, get in touch with Dorjeychubi Inder +91-9906971501.
I just returned from Leh trip and I followed exact same route you mentioned above to go from Pyongyang Tso to Tso mo Ri Ri lake. Your photos reminded me of my trip. And your article is very useful for first time visitors.
Thanks for sharing.
Glad I could help Vishwas :).
Pangong tso to Chusul to Rezang la, are public transports like shared taxi/6 seaters available? If yes, where to contact?
Which place will be the best to stay along the lake?
It is difficult to find shared taxi for this route. You will have better luck finding individuals who want to do this part and then teaming up with them to hire a taxi.
Thank you Yogesh
From one Himalayan crazy fan to another.
Plan to do it in September
What an outstanding writeup. Brought back the memories of my solo bike trip along the same route in Jun 18 (my son was the pillion).
I had to sit and cry my heart at the memorial in front of my son and I was not at all ashamed.
For me it was a pilgrimage. Thanks for bringing the memories and the tears back.
Thank you Yogesh ji to explored many of my native places and childhood days which I spend before 30 yrs or so.so glad to go through your column
And it’s so informative and well researched works that can’t be done even by now people like me.thanks
Thank you Kunchok :).
Very informative article indeed! Thanks for posting this!!
We are very much excited for our Ladakh expedition next month and I have a question to ask you,
We are travelling by bike. We would like to know if Turtuk-Pangong is doable in one day. Also, what would you suggest for this route-
Pangong – Chushul – Tso kar (is there any accomodation available nearby this route?)
Then tso kar- jispa
Or we should rather travel back to leh from pangong and then take the leh-manali highway?
Thank you for your kind words.Glad to see many many colourful pictures of pangong lake and its neighbouring areas.
Hi. Very nice and informative blog. Is there internet connectivity or mobile network in Chushul Village? Also, does it stay or is on and off?